Few cities in the world can look back on such a long and changeful history as Cologne. And probably even fewer cities match the spirit and the devotion with which the locals to this day like to give praise to their hometown. With roughly a million inhabitants it ranks as Germany's fourth largest city only behind Berlin, Hamburg, and Munich. Situated on the grand Rhine river, other towns North and South may have played a more significant role politically, and economically in recent history. But make no mistake Cologne is the cultural heart and most important town in west Germany -past and present. And as such it is enviously looked upon by some communities in Germany's most populous Rhineland region. The famous cathedral sits in the centre of the historical city centre, from which Cologne sprawls outwards on both sides of the Rhine. Clearly the buzz is most felt in the old town, where most of the tourist attractions are. But there is many a neighborhood ("veedel") that has its own local flair. Here, where locals go about their daily lives you will get a more genuine image of Cologne's vibe. Many people becry the obviously disputable looks of Cologne's dominating post-war architecture (90% of it got destroyed in WWII). But then, why go for looks, if you could have fun? And fun you can have in Cologne! Countless pubs, bars, theaters, cafés, and night clubs, as well as one of Europe's largest and pridest gay scenes, cater to the needs of its inhabitants, who enjoy a nation-wide reputation for being tolerant, welcoming, and joyous masters of celebration. Carnival, aka "the fifth season", must be at the core of any serious reflection on the city's identity. And arguably, the carnival mentality really is the foundation to the buzzing cultural melting pot that is today's Cologne; or "Kölle" as the local dialect calls it.