Merkato is reputed to be the largest open-air market in Africa, a sprawling, frenetic maze of stalls covering a huge swathe of western Addis Ababa. Traders sell just about everything, from spices, coffee and grains to textiles, electronics, recycled goods and traditional crafts, in a dizzying assault on the senses. Chaotic and overwhelming, it is best explored with a guide, and offers an unforgettable window into the commercial heart and everyday hustle of the city.