The bar of the Kilpisjarvi lodge is one of the few places to gather for a drink in Finlands remote north-western arm, drawing hikers, skiers and aurora chasers beneath the Saana fell. With a fireplace, local beers and a rugged wilderness atmosphere, it offers warmth and company at the edge of three countries. After a day in the mountains, it is the natural place to relax and watch the Arctic night through the windows.