Tallinns fairytale Old Town is genuinely gorgeous, but locals long ago handed it over to the cruise crowds. Here are seven things only tourists do, and what Estonians do instead.
1. Eat at a medieval-themed tavern
Tourists pay a premium for costumed “medieval” dinners on Town Hall Square. Locals eat in Kalamaja and Kopli, at neighbourhood spots like Sitsimae Kelder.
2. Never leave the Old Town walls
The real energy has moved to Telliskivi Creative City, a former rail complex full of studios, street art and food halls.
3. Queue for the same three viewpoints
Kohtuotsa gets the selfie crowd. Locals take their coffee to the quieter Patkuli platform, or the seafront at Kadriorg.
4. Buy amber in the tourist shops
Skip the souvenir strip and browse the design and vintage stalls at the Balti Jaam Market by the station.
5. Only see the walled centre
Kalamaja, with its wooden houses and sea air, is where young Tallinn actually lives and eats.
6. Pay tourist prices for coffee on the square
Duck one street back and the same flat white costs half as much in a local roastery.
7. Rush through in a day
The cruise ships leave by evening, and that is when Tallinn is at its best. Stay the night.
Plan it with the full Tallinn guide.
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