Paris

The Art Deco rival next door, a Left Bank institution since the 1880s – terrace coffee and omelettes.

A 1880 Alsatian brasserie with mirrored walls and a political-literary crowd – choucroute and steak tartare.

A vast 1927 Art Deco brasserie under painted pillars – oysters, lamb curry and the buzz of old Montparnasse.

Founded 1686 and billed as the world’s oldest café-restaurant – Voltaire’s haunt, now classic French menus.