Halfway down the cobbles of Andriivskyi Descent, Kanapa makes the case for modern Ukrainian cooking with produce from its own farm outside the city. Think smoked catfish, forest mushrooms, house-cured meats and honey cakes, served in a snug set of rooms with a leafy summer terrace out back. It is a favourite for a long, unhurried lunch. Order the tasting menu with the Ukrainian wine pairing and leave room for the deruny.