A hypnotic Sufi Sema ceremony, the spinning, white-robed whirling dervishes turning in meditative prayer to haunting music. Authentic performances (such as at the Galata Mevlevihanesi) are a moving window into Turkey’s mystical tradition.
A ferry ride out to the car-free Princes’ Islands in the Sea of Marmara, where grand wooden mansions, pine woods and bicycles replace the city bustle. Buyukada is the largest; hire a bike and swim, or just eat fish by the harbour.
A guided way to make sense of the overwhelming Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar, with the history of the covered markets, the hidden hans (caravanserais) and tips on carpets, tea and haggling without getting lost.
A guided graze through the fantastic food market of Kadikoy on the Asian side, tasting cheeses, fish, Turkish delight, pickles and street food, with a local unpacking the city’s food culture. The tastiest way to cross to Asia.
Sweat, scrub and soak the traditional way in a centuries-old hammam, with a vigorous exfoliating scrub and a cloud of soap foam under a marble dome. Historic bathhouses like Cagaloglu and Kilic Ali Pasa make it a memorable ritual.
A guided walk through the historic peninsula, Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Hippodrome and the Basilica Cistern, with the 2,000-year story of Byzantium and the Ottomans woven together. The essential first-day orientation.
A Cihangir favourite for the full Turkish breakfast experience, a table groaning with cheeses, honey with clotted cream, olives, eggs, jams and fresh bread in the eastern Van style. Go hungry and go with friends.
The definitive Istanbul experience, cruising the strait that divides Europe and Asia, past Ottoman palaces, fortresses and wooden waterside mansions. Options run from short hops to full-day ferries up to the Black Sea.
A cheerful seafood meyhane on the Golden Horn in Balat, where you can while away an evening over raki, cold meze and the day’s fish with the water lapping alongside. Relaxed, local and lovely at sunset.
A gloriously atmospheric meyhane going back to 1895, its walls lined with old Kulup Raki bottles and antique chandeliers. Come for chilled raki, classic meze and a proper old-Istanbul evening away from the tourist trail.