Smalhans has been the neighbourhood restaurant of St Hanshaugen since 2012, on Ullevalsveien north of the city centre. Its founding idea was the dagens husmann, a single changing daily dish, chalked up and priced for regular eating rather than occasion dining, and that survives alongside a menu of small sharing plates built on Norwegian produce. The kitchen holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand, the guide’s marker for good cooking at moderate cost, and was recognised for sustainable practice in 2024. The drinks list leans heavily on natural wine, with a long Norwegian beer selection. The room is plain and noisy in the manner of a genuine local, and it fills quickly in the evening, so booking ahead is sensible.