Kolaportid is Reykjaviks only proper flea market, a cheerfully chaotic weekend institution housed in a cavernous hall by the old harbour. Rummage through second-hand clothing, books, records and Icelandic woollens, then brave the food corner where locals queue for cured shark, dried fish and dark rye bread. It is as much a slice of local life as a place to shop. It only opens on Saturdays and Sundays, so plan accordingly, bring some cash for the smaller stalls, and arrive with an open mind and an empty bag.