Gamla Uppsala, or Old Uppsala, is one of Scandinavia’s most significant ancient sites, where three great royal burial mounds rise from the plain, said to hold legendary kings and marking a centre of power and pagan worship for over a thousand years. Alongside the mounds stand a medieval church built where a great pagan temple once stood, and an excellent museum. Steeped in Viking myth and Swedish history, and free to wander, this atmospheric landscape is a moving and evocative place and an essential excursion from the city.