Tucked into a quiet Podil courtyard, this moving museum tells the story of the 1986 Chornobyl disaster through documents, personal effects, dosimeters and haunting installations, including the names of the abandoned villages hung overhead. It is thoughtfully done and never sensational. With the exclusion zone itself off limits, this is the closest and most respectful way to understand the tragedy. Pick up the audio guide, and give yourself time in the darkened memorial hall.