A little pocket of Serbia at the top of La Canebiere, Dragan is the kind of family-run place Marseille does so well. Much of the cooking is homemade by the mother of the house, and the welcome is warm and unfussy, with Serbian flags at the door and rakija poured freely. Come hungry and expect hearty, generous plates rather than anything precious.
You will find it on rue Bernex in the Reformes quarter, just off the top of the Canebiere. There is a small room by the entrance and a larger one downstairs, and the kitchen keeps going until around midnight, which makes it a reliable spot for a late, unhurried dinner. It is the sort of address regulars guard quietly and newcomers leave promising to return.
Local tip: Go with an appetite and let the family steer you towards the grills and the rakija, and book ahead at weekends, as the handful of tables fill fast.
Good to know
- Where: 1 rue Bernex, 13001 Marseille
- City: Marseille