Enoteca Belledonne is a much-loved wine bar in the smart Chiaia district, its walls lined floor to ceiling with bottles. In the evening the narrow lane outside fills with a well-dressed crowd spilling out with glasses in hand, making it one of the liveliest aperitivo spots in the area. The knowledgeable staff pour a broad range of Campanian and Italian wines, accompanied by simple plates of cheese and cured meats.