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El Horreya

A characterful alley off Muizz Street in old Islamic CairoPhoto: Wikimedia Commons

Downtown  •  ★ 4.3  •  $

Barely changed in a century, El Horreya is a gloriously faded downtown institution, a high-ceilinged coffeehouse where men play chess over tea on one side and cold beers are served on the other. There is no music, no frills and a wonderful cross-section of Cairo. It is cash only and utterly authentic. Grab a marble-topped table, order a beer or a mint tea, and soak up one of the last great old cafes of the city.

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