Photo: Wikimedia CommonsBehind a discreet Zamalek door, Abou El Sid serves classic Egyptian home cooking in a jewel-box of low lamps, brass and Oriental cushions. This is the place for molokhia, stuffed pigeon, koshary and slow-cooked tagines done properly. It is atmospheric and popular, so book ahead in the evening. Order the molokhia with rabbit or the mixed grill, and finish with a shisha and a strong Turkish coffee in the salon.