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Riga

ONE ONE

Tucked into an old factory courtyard off the Miera iela quarter, ONE ONE is where Riga goes for techno and drum’n’bass after everything else closes. Two floors of a UNESCO-protected industrial building, DnB upstairs, and a crowd that skews grown-up rather than teenage. Doors open Friday and Saturday around 11pm and run until 6am; entry is about 10 euros, so bring cash and pace yourself.

Skyline Bar

Riga’s classic high-altitude drink: a panoramic elevator whisks you to the 26th floor of the Radisson Blu Latvija, where glass walls give a 360° sweep over Old Town rooftops. Order a signature cocktail or a poke bowl and circle the bar for the best angles — sunset is prime time. Tip: there’s a small cover charge (around €5) Thursday to Saturday evenings from 20:00, so arrive earlier to skip it and grab a window seat.

Kalnciema Quarter

Why it matters: this cluster of 19th-century wooden houses in Āgenskalns was rescued from decades of Soviet-era neglect by a private restoration initiative in the early 2000s, and now keeps Riga’s wooden-architecture heritage alive as a working community hub – its Saturday market gives Latvian small farmers, craftspeople and designers a direct line to customers. Come on a Saturday for organic produce, artisan wine, handmade jewellery and live music; on weekdays the free on-site gallery shows local and international artists. Tip: it’s a 10-15 minute tram ride from the centre, or a scenic walk over Vanšu bridge.

Otrā Elpa

Why it matters: founded in 2009 as Riga’s first charity shop, Otrā Elpa (‘Second Breath’) donates all its profits – more than 150,000 euros and 2 million items to date – to over 170 Latvian causes, from animal shelters to senior organisations. The Marijas iela branch is the handiest for visitors: racks of secondhand clothes, books, vinyl and the odd Soviet-era curiosity, all at honest prices. Come to hunt for a one-of-a-kind souvenir that actually gives back. Tip: it’s two blocks from the Central Market, so pair the two on one walk – and note it’s closed Sundays.

RB Cafe

Why it matters: opened in 2018 by the Rūpju bērns association, RB Cafe is the first cafe in the Baltics where the majority of staff are people with disabilities – over 20 employment contracts so far, with several employees moving on into the open job market. It is also simply a very good bakery-cafe: the Pavlova cake is the house legend, backed by pies, cupcakes and coffee locals rate among Riga’s best. Order a slice of Pavlova and a flat white, and browse the counter for pastries to take away. Tip: it’s an easy stop between the Art Nouveau district and the A. Čaka street neighbourhood.

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Robert’s Books

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