La Renella
A wood-fired Trastevere bakery going since 1870, loved for its pizza al taglio, crusty bread and biscuits pulled hot from the oven all day and late into the night. Point at what looks good and eat it on the step outside.
Rome
Il Barroccio
One of the longest-standing trattorias in the centre, a few steps from the Pantheon, serving the Roman classics, carbonara, saltimbocca, artichokes, in a warm, timeworn room. Central but still proudly traditional.
Ai Tre Scalini
A cosy, ivy-fronted wine bar in the heart of hip Monti, pouring since 1895. Squeeze in for Italian wines by the glass, cheese and salumi boards and hearty daily specials, in one of Rome’s most atmospheric little rooms.
Borgo Pio
A charming cobbled pedestrian street a stone’s throw from St Peter’s, lined with trattorias, wine bars and little shops – a surprisingly village-like pocket of calm right by the Vatican. Lovely for a wander and a plate of pasta away from the crowds.
Enoteca Corsi
A wonderfully old-school wine-shop-and-trattoria near the Pantheon, run by the same family for generations, with a tiny handwritten menu of Roman classics that changes daily. Cheap, honest and utterly local – go for lunch.
Old Bear
A characterful Mediterranean restaurant on a quiet lane near Piazza Navona, set in a former carpenter’s workshop with warm rustic rooms and a menu built around fresh pasta and seasonal cooking. Intimate and popular – reserve.
Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara
A no-frills Roman institution behind Campo de’ Fiori devoted to one glorious thing: filetti di baccalà – golden, deep-fried fillets of salt cod. Order a couple with puntarelle and a carafe of white. Evenings only, and gloriously unchanged.
Spin Time Labs
A vast reclaimed building near Santa Croce turned self-run community and cultural hub – home to concerts, theatre, workshops, a craft-beer lab and social projects supporting the families who live there. A very different, grassroots side of Rome.
Barikama
A migrant-run social cooperative founded by West-African newcomers, producing organic yogurt and vegetables and selling through Rome’s solidarity-purchase groups and markets. Buying from Barikamà directly supports dignified work and integration.
Casa Scalabrini 634
Since 2015 this welcoming house has been a Rome reference point for refugee integration, hosting families and young people in semi-autonomy and running events, shared meals and cultural activities open to all – a place to meet, learn and support newcomers.