Giolitti
One of Rome’s most storied gelaterie, scooping since 1900 near the Pantheon. Grab a cone of classic flavours and join the after-dinner passeggiata – it’s a Roman ritual as much as a dessert.
Rome
Da Enzo al 29
A tiny, much-loved Trastevere trattoria that locals name first for classic Roman pasta – carbonara, cacio e pepe, amatriciana – plus meatballs, artichokes and tiramisu. It doesn’t take bookings and the queue is real, so turn up early.
Roscioli
A famous deli, wine bar and restaurant crammed into one narrow space off Campo de’ Fiori, its shelves heavy with aged cheeses, cured meats and wine. The kitchen turns out refined Roman staples – tables are hard to get, so reserve early.
Piatto Romano
In Testaccio, the historic heart of Roman cooking, this trattoria champions local produce and seasonal menus – think fiori di zucca, oxtail stew and offal done properly. A favourite of locals who want the real, unfiltered cucina romana.
Jewish Ghetto & Portico d’Ottavia
One of Europe’s oldest Jewish quarters, a moving and atmospheric warren of lanes around the ancient Portico d’Ottavia. Wander its streets, then try the neighbourhood’s legendary carciofi alla giudia (Jewish-style fried artichokes).
Gianicolo Terrace
The Janiculum hill above Trastevere offers arguably the best free panorama of Rome’s domes and rooftops. Come for sunset – and at noon each day when a cannon is ceremonially fired over the city.
Villa Borghese Gardens
Rome’s beloved central park – landscaped gardens, umbrella pines, a little boating lake and the Pincio terrace overlooking Piazza del Popolo. Rent a bike or just escape the city bustle for an hour.
Piazza Navona
A glorious baroque square shaped like the ancient stadium it was built over, centred on Bernini’s dramatic Fountain of the Four Rivers. Ringed by cafes, street artists and churches – lovely by day and floodlit at night.
Trastevere
Rome’s most atmospheric neighbourhood – a maze of ivy-draped cobbled lanes, medieval churches and buzzing piazzas that fill with locals and students come evening. Perfect for an aimless wander and a long dinner.
Campo de’ Fiori Market
By morning a bustling fruit, veg and flower market; by night a lively square of bars beneath the brooding statue of philosopher Giordano Bruno. One of the few central piazzas without a church – and all the livelier for it.