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Skopje

Holocaust Memorial Center for the Jews of Macedonia

Why it matters: this is a Holocaust museum built with money that belonged to the victims. In 2002 the government made the Holocaust Fund of the Jews of Macedonia – directed by the Jewish community itself – the legal recipient of heirless Jewish property, and the roughly 25.6 million dollars of restitution paid out between 2009 and 2018 financed this center, which opened in 2011 in Evrejsko Maalo, the old Jewish Quarter it commemorates. The subject is the 7,148 Macedonian Jews, some 98 percent of the community, rounded up in March 1943 and deported to Treblinka. The permanent exhibition, opened in 2019, traces two millennia of Sephardic life in the Balkans before it gets to the deportation, and includes a section on Ladino as it was spoken here – do not skip it to reach the Holocaust rooms, because the loss only lands if you have seen what was lost. Practical tip: it sits directly behind the Museum of the Macedonian Struggle, two minutes from the Stone Bridge, and it is closed on Mondays.

Kopche

Why it matters: run by the Red Cross of the City of Skopje since 2018, Kopche is a second-hand shop where one rack of donated clothes does three jobs at once – sold cheap to whoever walks in, given away free by voucher to families in social risk, and worked by people from vulnerable groups being brought back into employment. Clothing too worn to resell gets cut up and sewn into patchwork bedding and holiday decorations instead of going to landfill. Come to rummage rather than to shop a curated rail, and ask after the patchwork pieces – they are the only-here buy. Practical tip: it is inside the Red Cross building on Bul. Kocho Racin, a short walk from Macedonia Square; open to 17:00 on weekdays but only to 14:00 on Saturday and closed Sunday, and you can drop off clothes you are done travelling with while you are there.

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