For the real thing, locals point you to The Cobblestone in Smithfield, a proper trad pub where the music comes first. The front-bar sessions are informal and free, with musicians of all ages gathering nightly to play jigs and reels over pints of stout. There is a quieter back room for ticketed gigs too. Respect the unwritten rule and keep the chat down when the players are in full flow. Arrive by nine to catch the best of the session.