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Kolonitz Beisl

A deeply local eating-and-drinking joint in District 3 with a weathered bar and rustic wooden tables. Lentil stew with pork cracklings, big dumplings and schnitzel variations – about the cheapest sit-down meal in central Vienna.

Glacis Beisl

A modern take on the classic Viennese Beisl, hidden like a secret garden in the old city walls behind the MuseumsQuartier. A short, well-executed menu of schnitzel, goulash and seasonal specials – lovely on a summer evening.

Zum Holunderstrauch

An unassuming neighbourhood tavern a few blocks off the main drag, full of regulars rather than tourists. Straightforward, hearty Viennese comfort cooking at fair prices – the real, unpolished thing.

Donauinsel

A 21km-long slip of island in the middle of the Danube – Vienna’s free playground for swimming, cycling, skating and barbecues, and home to Europe’s huge free Donauinselfest each summer.

Kahlenberg

A hilltop on the edge of the Vienna Woods with a sweeping view over the city, the Danube and the surrounding vineyards. Pair it with a stroll down to a Heuriger (wine tavern) in Grinzing.

Hundertwasserhaus

A riot of wonky colour, uneven floors and rooftop trees – Friedensreich Hundertwasser’s fairytale social-housing block. It’s residential, so admire the facade from the street and pop into the little village opposite.

Graben & Kohlmarkt

Vienna’s grandest pedestrian streets – the wide Graben with its baroque Plague Column, and elegant Kohlmarkt leading to the Hofburg, lined with luxury shops and the famous Demel patisserie.

Karlskirche

A magnificent baroque church presiding over Karlsplatz, its green dome flanked by two great columns reflected in a pool. Free to admire from outside; inside, a lift takes you up under the frescoed dome.

MuseumsQuartier

One of the world’s largest cultural complexes, but really a giant free courtyard where the city hangs out on colourful loungers between the Leopold and mumok museums, cafes and bars. Great by day and night.

Stadtpark

Vienna’s pretty central park along the old river Wien, dotted with monuments – most famously the gilded statue of waltz king Johann Strauss. A lovely, easy green break in the centre.

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