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The old Jewish and Greek quarter along the Golden Horn, now Istanbul’s most photogenic neighbourhood, tumbling streets of rainbow houses, antique shops, cafes and crumbling grandeur. Come for a leisurely wander and endless photos.

The bustling double-decker bridge over the Golden Horn, its top deck lined with rod-to-rail fishermen and its lower deck with fish restaurants and cafes. A quintessential slice of Istanbul life, best at sunset with the mosques in silhouette.

The grandest of the imperial mosques, the masterpiece of the great architect Sinan, crowning the third hill with a serene, soaring interior. Free to enter, far quieter than the Blue Mosque, and its terrace has one of the best free views over the Golden Horn.

A fragrant L-shaped market by the waterfront piled with spices, teas, Turkish delight, dried fruit and nuts. Smaller and more manageable than the Grand Bazaar; taste before you buy and wander the lively streets around it.

The magnificent early-17th-century imperial mosque famous for the blue Iznik tiles lining its interior and its six slender minarets. Free to enter (dress modestly and mind prayer times); breathtaking facing Hagia Sophia across the square.

One of the oldest and largest covered markets on earth, a labyrinth of 4,000 shops under painted vaults, selling carpets, lamps, gold and ceramics. Touristy and dizzying, but an essential experience; haggle hard and enjoy getting lost.