A visit to the Selimiye Mosque, the former Cathedral of St Sophia in northern Nicosia, allows travellers to step inside one of the finest Gothic buildings in the eastern Mediterranean, now a working mosque. Reached by crossing the Green Line, the vast, luminous interior, stripped of its Christian decoration and fitted for Islamic worship, is a striking symbol of the citys history. Modest dress is required, and the visit is a moving highlight of the old towns northern side.