Swan Oyster Depot

Locals have been squeezing onto the same 18 wooden stools since the Sancimino family took over this marble-countered seafood depot in 1946 (it first opened as Swan in 1912). There’s no kitchen to speak of, just impeccably fresh oysters, cracked crab, smoked salmon and clam chowder handed across the counter by brothers who know their regulars. Go early or go late-morning to beat the notorious line, and don’t skip the Sicilian sashimi.