Founded in 1670, El Rinconcillo is reputed to be the oldest bar in Seville, a beautifully preserved tavern near the Santa Catalina church. Behind its wooden bar, waiters still chalk up the bill on the counter, and the shelves are lined with bottles and hanging hams. Regulars and visitors alike gather for classic Andalusian tapas such as spinach with chickpeas, washed down with sherry or vermouth, in surroundings that have barely changed in centuries.