Tucked down a laneway off Bridge Street, Mr Wong is the Merivale group love letter to Cantonese cooking, a cavernous, dimly lit room that hums every night of the week. The yum cha is a Sydney institution and the crisp-skinned duck is the dish everyone orders. It is lively rather than hushed, so it suits a group. Go at lunch for the trolley dim sum, book ahead for dinner as walk-in waits run long, and share widely across the table so you can try more of the menu.