Milan can feel buttoned-up and expensive, but locals have a warm, affordable ritual that unlocks the city: aperitivo. Here is how to eat and drink like a Milanese.
Master the aperitivo
Early evening, order a spritz or Negroni and the buffet comes with it. Mag Cafe on the Navigli canals is a local favourite for a proper, unhurried aperitivo.

Gather at the Colonne
When the weather turns warm, half the neighbourhood ends up on the steps of the Colonne di San Lorenzo, drinks in hand, the citys most democratic night out.

Shop the market like a Milanese
For lunch ingredients and street food, the Mercato di via Fauche is a beloved local produce market, while the weekend Fiera di Sinigaglia along the Naviglio mixes food with flea-market finds.

Grab a panzerotto
For a cheap, iconic bite near the Duomo, join the permanent queue at Luini for a hot, fried panzerotto. Locals have eaten them there for generations.
See the full Milan guide.
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