Golden Steer Steakhouse

A steakhouse on West Sahara that has traded continuously since 1958, in a red-and-black dining room of leather booths, tableside carving and dim lamplight that has barely been altered. Booths carry small plaques naming former regulars, among them Sinatra, Elvis, Muhammad Ali and various figures of the era's organised crime, which reads as record rather than gimmick, since the restaurant predates almost everything now standing on the Strip. The cooking is old-school American: dry-aged beef, Caesar salad and bananas Foster prepared at the table, oysters Rockefeller, a heavy cellar. It sits just off the boulevard at its northern reach, walkable from the Sahara end of the Strip. Booking is essential, often weeks ahead. Portions are large and the pace is unhurried.