Naples invented pizza and it still does it better than anywhere on earth. But Neapolitans rarely queue at the places you see tagged online. Here is where locals actually eat.
The pizza that matters
For the real thing, Keste in the Centro Storico turns out a blistered, cloud-soft Margherita that pizza obsessives fly in for. It is a proper sit-down slice of the craft.
Street food the Neapolitan way
Cheaper and just as beloved is pizza fritta, dough folded around ricotta and pork and deep-fried. Pizza Fritta da Fernanda in the Quartieri Spagnoli is a local institution for eating it hot, wrapped in paper, on your feet.
Shop the markets like a nonna
To eat as locals cook, browse the neighbourhood stalls of the Mercatino di Antignano up in Vomero, piled with produce, cheese and the day catch.
A late bite with a soundtrack
When dinner runs long, Bourbon Street Jazz Club pairs small plates with live music deep in the old centre.
Hungry for more? Browse the full Naples guide.
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