Safa Meyhanesi
A gloriously atmospheric meyhane going back to 1895, its walls lined with old Kulup Raki bottles and antique chandeliers. Come for chilled raki, classic meze and a proper old-Istanbul evening away from the tourist trail.
Istanbul
Karakoy Gulluoglu
The most famous baklava counter in Istanbul, run by the Gulluoglu family since 1949, its trays of glistening pistachio and walnut baklava cut fresh to order. Grab a portion and a tea and eat it on the spot; it is that good.
Yanyali Fehmi
A Kadikoy market fixture serving some of the best Ottoman and Turkish home cooking in the city since the early 1900s, hearty stews, stuffed vegetables and slow-cooked classics. Old-fashioned, generous and thoroughly local.
Karakoy Lokantasi
A handsome turquoise-tiled institution in Karakoy, a casual lokanta of ready-made Turkish dishes by day that turns into a buzzing meyhane of meze and raki by night. Dependable, warm and always full; book for dinner.
Asmali Cavit
A beloved old-school meyhane in Asmalimescit where Istanbullus settle in for a long night of raki and meze, cold starters, grilled fish and warm conviviality. Tables are tight and the atmosphere is everything; reserve.
Ciya Sofrasi
A world-renowned Kadikoy restaurant reviving forgotten regional Anatolian recipes, its counter groaning with a daily-changing spread of stews, stuffed vegetables and unusual kebabs. Point at what you fancy; it is one of the most rewarding meals in the city.
Ortakoy
A pretty Bosphorus-side neighbourhood beneath the great suspension bridge, its baroque waterfront mosque making one of the city’s most photographed scenes. Come for the square, the cafes and a stuffed baked potato (kumpir) by the water.
Istiklal Avenue
Istanbul’s grand pedestrian boulevard, running from Taksim Square down to Tunel, thronged day and night with shoppers, buskers and the nostalgic red tram. Duck into the side streets and passages for meyhanes, bars and live music.
Balat
The old Jewish and Greek quarter along the Golden Horn, now Istanbul’s most photogenic neighbourhood, tumbling streets of rainbow houses, antique shops, cafes and crumbling grandeur. Come for a leisurely wander and endless photos.
Galata Bridge
The bustling double-decker bridge over the Golden Horn, its top deck lined with rod-to-rail fishermen and its lower deck with fish restaurants and cafes. A quintessential slice of Istanbul life, best at sunset with the mosques in silhouette.