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Istanbul

Suleymaniye Mosque

The grandest of the imperial mosques, the masterpiece of the great architect Sinan, crowning the third hill with a serene, soaring interior. Free to enter, far quieter than the Blue Mosque, and its terrace has one of the best free views over the Golden Horn.

Spice Bazaar

A fragrant L-shaped market by the waterfront piled with spices, teas, Turkish delight, dried fruit and nuts. Smaller and more manageable than the Grand Bazaar; taste before you buy and wander the lively streets around it.

Blue Mosque

The magnificent early-17th-century imperial mosque famous for the blue Iznik tiles lining its interior and its six slender minarets. Free to enter (dress modestly and mind prayer times); breathtaking facing Hagia Sophia across the square.

Grand Bazaar

One of the oldest and largest covered markets on earth, a labyrinth of 4,000 shops under painted vaults, selling carpets, lamps, gold and ceramics. Touristy and dizzying, but an essential experience; haggle hard and enjoy getting lost.

Istanbul Modern

Turkey’s leading modern and contemporary art museum in a striking Renzo Piano building on the Karakoy waterfront, with a mirrored roof terrace and Bosphorus views. A refreshing dose of the contemporary between the ancient sights.

Chora Church (Kariye)

A modest former church hiding the most exquisite Byzantine mosaics and frescoes in Istanbul, glowing with gold across every surface. Out in the old-city walls and gloriously uncrowded; a favourite of those in the know.

Istanbul Archaeology Museums

A superb, underrated trio of museums beside Topkapi, home to the astonishing Alexander Sarcophagus, ancient Near Eastern treasures and Ottoman tilework. Calm, air-conditioned and a highlight for history lovers.

Galata Tower

The chunky medieval stone tower that crowns the Galata skyline, with a 360-degree balcony looking over the old city, the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus. Book a timed ticket and go near sunset for the best light.

Dolmabahce Palace

The extravagant 19th-century palace where the late Ottoman sultans traded Topkapi for European grandeur, all crystal staircases, gilt and the world’s largest Bohemian chandelier. Guided visits only; the Bosphorus setting is spectacular.

Topkapi Palace

The opulent seat of the Ottoman sultans for four centuries, a series of courtyards, jewelled treasuries and tiled pavilions above the Bosphorus. Pay the extra for the Harem, the most beautiful part; allow half a day.

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