U Fleku
A vast, rowdy beer hall that’s been brewing its famous dark lager since 1499 – touristy and boisterous, with oompah music and hearty Czech food. Go with the flow, have the dark beer, and enjoy the spectacle.
Prague
Cafe Louvre
A sprawling first-floor cafe open since 1902, once frequented by Kafka and Einstein – all chandeliers, billiards and old-world charm. Great for breakfast, cake or a leisurely coffee over the papers.
Cafe Slavia
A historic riverside cafe across from the National Theatre, a haunt of writers and dissidents (Havel among them) since 1884. Come for the Art Deco room, the river-and-castle view and a coffee steeped in history.
Kantyna
Part butcher shop, part buzzing standing restaurant – top-quality Czech beef ordered at the counter and eaten at communal tables: steak, tartare, carpaccio and smoked cuts, with beer on tap. Where Prague’s meat lovers go.
Cafe Savoy
A grand cafe with a soaring painted ceiling, famous for its breakfasts and brunch, house-baked pastries and a proper Viennese-style coffee ritual. Elegant and popular – book for weekends.
Lokal
One of the most popular Czech pubs in Prague, packed with locals over fresh tank Pilsner and a daily-changing menu of svickova, schnitzel and goulash – all well under 200 CZK. Loud, buzzy and the real thing.
U Kalendu
A gloriously unchanged Communist-era pub with no English menu and no concessions to the modern world – just proper, dirt-cheap Czech cooking (roast pork, gulas, whatever the daily soup is) and a Michelin Bib Gourmand nod. As authentic as it gets.
Kampa Island
A tranquil little island tucked under the Charles Bridge – a riverside park, an old water wheel, the crawling-baby sculptures and the Kampa modern-art museum. One of Prague’s most romantic corners.
Riegrovy Sady
A rolling hillside park in trendy Vinohrady with a famous beer garden looking across the rooftops to the castle. Where young Prague comes to picnic, watch football on the big screen and catch the sunset.
Vysehrad
A hilltop fort south of the centre with a neo-Gothic church, ramparts with sweeping river views and a cemetery where many Czech greats (Dvorak, Smetana) rest. Peaceful, local and gloriously crowd-free.