A beloved Cannaregio osteria hidden on a tiny side street away from the tourist crush, where locals gather for cicchetti and a spritz before dinner. The daily menu of fresh pasta and seafood changes with the market. Book ahead – it’s popular. Tip: the assorted seafood appetiser is excellent.
One of the few late-night bars in Venice, a lively spot near the Rialto Bridge with hundreds of bras strung from the ceiling, customer drawings on the walls, football on the TV and good jazz. A fun place for a last drink; food is served but pricier. Mostly a young crowd.
The campo most loved by Venetians – a leafy Santa Croce square where kids play after school year-round and even tend a little vegetable garden, overlooked by the atmospheric San Giacomo dall’Orio church. It hosts plenty of local culture – poetry festivals, tango shows and more. Tip: check what’s on, especially in summer.
A lively Cannaregio institution best at night, when the atmosphere buzzes and bands play everything from jazz to rock’n’roll. Take a table for dinner or just nurse a glass of wine and appetizers at the bar (or outside along the canal) while you listen. Tip: check their page to see who’s playing.
Few visitors know you can cross the Grand Canal by gondola traghetto (ferry) for just 2 EUR – a bigger, undecorated working gondola, paid direct to the gondolier. It’s not a romantic ride so much as a fun local shortcut, since bridges over the canal are scarce. Tip: look for the yellow ‘traghetto’ signs – there are seven crossing points.
Where to stay in Venice? A local guide to the best sestieri, from iconic San Marco to local Cannaregio, arty Dorsoduro and calm, good-value Giudecca.
A local’s perfect 2-day Venice itinerary: St Mark’s and the Grand Canal, a cicchetti crawl through quiet Cannaregio, and the lagoon islands of Murano and Burano.
The best things to do in Venice, chosen by locals: top sights, where to eat, where to stay and the best tours, with a handy trip planner.