Aleponija

Riga’s best-kept secret bar, hidden in a peeling old wooden house in the Latgale suburb and run by an indie-rock musician. Push through to find a warren that’s part granny’s living room, part hipster squat — thick beams, antique furniture, dim lamplight and gloriously macabre portraits — opening onto a big courtyard terrace. The pour is Latvian craft beer and there’s often a local band on. Come late; it only really gets going after dark.

While you’re in the city, pair it with a Riga Central Market food tour.