Athens

Athens’ raucous central market – a cathedral of hanging meat, glistening fish and, around it, stalls of olives, spices, cheese and herbs. Grab a bowl of patsas or a bite at one of the legendary market tavernas.

The kilt-and-pom-pom-clad Evzones guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of Parliament, changing over with a slow, high-kicking ritual on the hour. Come Sunday at 11am for the full ceremony with the band.

A cool, shady oasis right behind Parliament – winding paths, ponds, ancient ruins and a small menagerie. The perfect escape from the summer heat and city noise, leading down to the Zappeion hall.

The highest hill in Athens, topped by a little white chapel and a cafe with a jaw-dropping panorama over the whole city to the Acropolis and the sea. Walk up through the pines or take the funicular – sunset is unbeatable.

A tiny pocket of whitewashed, island-style houses climbing the north slope of the Acropolis, built by 19th-century workers from the Cyclades. It feels like a Greek island dropped into the city – a magical, hushed wander.

The oldest neighbourhood in Athens, a charming maze of neoclassical houses, bougainvillea-draped lanes and cafes wrapped around the base of the Acropolis. Touristy but lovely – wander up into quiet Anafiotika to escape the crowds.

A buzzing square and warren of streets where the flea market spills out – antiques, vintage, souvenirs and street food, with the Acropolis floating above. Liveliest (and most chaotic) on Sunday mornings.