The world’s finest collection of ancient Greek art – the golden Mask of Agamemnon, the bronze Artemision Zeus, the Antikythera Mechanism. A little out of the tourist core, and all the calmer for it; give it a couple of hours.
A handful of colossal columns are all that remain of what was once the largest temple in Greece, next to Hadrian’s Arch. Small but striking, and covered by the combined Acropolis ticket.
The civic heart of ancient Athens where Socrates once held forth – now a green archaeological park with the beautifully preserved Temple of Hephaestus and the reconstructed Stoa of Attalos museum. Peaceful and often uncrowded.
The sacred rock crowned by the Parthenon – the defining monument of ancient Greece and of Athens itself. Buy a timed ticket and go at opening or late afternoon to beat the heat and the crowds; a combo ticket covers the other ancient sites.
A stunning modern museum at the foot of the rock, its top-floor Parthenon Gallery framing the temple through glass. The finds – caryatids, friezes, painted marbles – make the Acropolis make sense. Don’t miss the excavations under the glass floor.
“Vrahakia” means little rocks – the smooth stone top of the Areopagus hill, with a sweeping view over Athens and the mountains ringing the Attica basin. A wonderful spot for a morning coffee with friends before the crowds, and the Acropolis entrance is just a few steps away. Find the path opposite Cine Thisseio.
Time seems to have stopped in this coffee-house of well over a century, where regulars nurse a Greek coffee and hunch over the chessboard set out on every table. The walls are lined with photos of famous players; strike up a game (Karpov once played here in 1992) and ask owner Yiannis for a plate of meze.
A hidden bar tucked inside an old lodge, beloved by fans of alternative music from techno to indie rock. The tiny interior is a proper dancing den that goes until dawn, while the larger courtyard is perfect for a laid-back drink. There’s no sign from the street, so follow the map to find it.
An Elvis-themed souvlaki joint where the grill does things differently – skewers served with fresh fried potatoes, lemon and bread rather than wrapped in pita. Relaxed, cheap and open late, it’s the go-to after a night out in Kerameikos, best eaten on the square right outside. Go for the pork.
Where to stay in Athens? A local guide to the best neighbourhoods, from Plaka and Makrygianni under the Acropolis to hip Koukaki and upscale Kolonaki.