Frici Papa
A no-frills, dirt-cheap canteen on Kiraly utca ladling out big plates of Hungarian classics, schnitzel, stews, stuffed cabbage, to students, workers and thrifty travellers. Order at the counter and dig in.
Budapest
Danube Evening Cruise
Budapest is arguably the most beautiful capital seen from the water at night, when Parliament, the castle and the bridges glow gold. Evening cruises range from simple sightseeing to dinner or a drink on deck.
Marxim
A cheerfully kitsch, communist-themed pizzeria in Buda, walls plastered with Soviet iconography and pizzas named for the old regime (the Gulag, Anarchismo). Cheap, fun and a Budapest institution with students.
Rosenstein
A warm, family-run restaurant behind Keleti station serving soulful Hungarian and Jewish home cooking, from goose to matzo-ball soup to the famous flodni cake. Old-fashioned in the best way; book ahead.
Getto Gulyas
A friendly District VII spot dedicated to Hungarian comfort classics, above all the stews: goulash, porkolt and paprikas, plus game dishes and good local wine. Hearty, unpretentious and a reliable taste of the real thing.
Menza
A stylish retro-canteen bistro on buzzy Liszt Ferenc square, reworking Hungarian classics (chicken paprikash, schnitzel) in a fun 70s setting with a great terrace. Popular with locals and visitors alike.
Kadar Etkezde
A legendary old-Pest lunch canteen on Klauzal ter, recently reopened after years away, with shared tables, soda siphons and honest home-style Hungarian cooking. Cash, lunchtime only, and full of regulars.
Mazel Tov
A gorgeous plant-filled ruin-bar restaurant in the Jewish Quarter serving fresh Middle Eastern food (hummus, shakshuka, grilled meats) under fairy lights and a glass roof. Buzzy and beautiful; book for dinner.
Bors GasztroBar
A tiny, wildly popular hole-in-the-wall on Kazinczy street doing inventive soups and stuffed baguettes at pocket-money prices. A local go-to in the ruin-bar quarter; there is almost always a queue, and it is worth it.
Margaret Island
A long, car-free green island in the middle of the Danube, laced with running tracks, gardens, medieval ruins and a musical fountain. Where Budapest comes to jog, cycle and picnic away from the traffic.